Marseille feet and packages

Ingredients for 6 servings:

• 1 portion of tripe (sheep’s rumen), well cleaned and pre-scalded
• 100 g fat (lamb fat)
• 150 g smoked bacon
• 1 bunch parsley, flat-leaf, chopped
• 3 garlic cloves, chopped
• pepper
• nutmeg
• 3 tbsp olive oil
• 6 shanks (lamb feet), already cleaned and pre-blanched by the butcher
• ¾ liter vegetable broth, possibly more
• ¼ liter wine, rosé
• some orange peel (orange zest), 3 pieces, not too small
• 5 tomatoes, peeled, pitted and quartered
• 1 onion(s), finely diced
• 1 onion(s), peeled
• 1 clove(s), stuck on the whole onion
• 2 garlic cloves, peeled,
• 2 carrots, roughly diced
• 1 bouquet garni, thyme, bay branch with 3-4 fresh bay leaves
• 1 chili pepper(s), small, mild, pitted
• salt and pepper
• nutmeg
• 1 garlic clove(s), finely chopped
• 1 tomato(s), peeled, pitted and chopped
• 50 ml wine, rosé

Instructions

Working time approx. 1 hour; Total time approx. 1 hour

Stuffed sheep tripe, braised with lamb trotters, carrots and tomatoes in vegetable broth and wine

This dish, typical of the Marseille region, consists of stuffed sheep tripe “parcels” that are braised together with sheep’s feet, carrots, and tomatoes. It requires a very long simmer (at least 8 hours) and is one of those dishes that requires time. To make the parcels, the tripe is cut into approximately 12 strips, each approximately 8 cm long. A slit is cut into one corner of each strip, parallel to the edge. The smoked bacon is cut into thin strips. Finely chop the parsley, garlic, and lamb fat, mix well to a filling, and season with pepper and a little nutmeg. Place a strip of smoked bacon on each strip of tripe, add a tablespoon of filling, fold the long sides slightly over the filling, and then roll the strip up as tightly as possible, starting on the side opposite the slit. To secure it, pull the entire parcel through this slit, which is then pulled onto the center of the parcel. Those living in the South of France can simplify this process somewhat and buy the pre-rolled and filled paquets from a butcher or charcuterie board; the cheaper options in supermarkets are considerably less sophisticated. Sauté the onions in olive oil without browning them, add the tomatoes, carrots, and whole garlic cloves, layer the paquets and the feet, and fill with wine and vegetable stock until everything is just covered. Add all the remaining ingredients (an onion studded with a clove, orange zest, bouquet garni, chili pepper). Add salt sparingly, as the bacon is already salty, generously season with pepper, and grate in a little nutmeg. Simmer at the lowest possible heat for 8-10 hours, gently scraping the bottom of the pan every now and then (without stirring) to prevent sticking. The lamb feet will thicken the dish and tend to burn. Check the liquid level regularly and add more stock or wine if necessary. The dish shouldn’t be swimming in liquid; always add just enough to barely cover it. You can check whether the tripe parcels are cooked by carefully cutting into one of the corners. It should cut easily. Because the dish has a strong aroma, I always prepare it the day before. This gives it enough time to braise thoroughly (this can sometimes take an extra two hours), and the typical tripe smell that develops during cooking has time to dissipate before it’s time to eat. To finish, remove the lamb’s foot bones, which have come loose during braising, and the bouquet garni. Because the long braising causes both the garlic flavor and the color of the tomato to evaporate somewhat, I add a peeled and finely diced tomato and a finely chopped and crushed garlic clove right at the end, and let them braise for another 10 minutes (while I slowly heat the dish up). An extra splash of wine at the end adds a slightly fresh note, but you can also omit it. Wine isn’t a must for this dish and can be omitted. I don’t think lemon would be a good substitute, as it would be too acidic. If you like, you can put the dish under the grill shortly before serving to give it a little crust. Allow two packages per person, but tripe lovers can easily double this amount. We serve it with baby potatoes, cooked without water in a clay pot, and a potato gratin for my children. We pair it with a rosé, one that’s one level above the one used for braising, preferably a “Mas de Cadenet” from the Trets area.