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Sumalak sweet from Uzbekistan for the beginning of spring (Nawruz)

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Ingredients for 24 servings:

  • 750 g wheat
  • 500 ml vegetable oil
  • 2 kg wheat flour
  • 5 walnuts, in the shell

Instructions

Working time approx. 10 minutes; Rest period approx. 6 days; Cooking/baking time approx. 17 hours; Total time approx. 6 days 17 hours 10 minutes

Due to the long preparation time, it is particularly suitable for social cooking

This dish is traditionally prepared in Uzbekistan at the beginning of spring (Navroz). Several women take turns cooking. At the same time, the preparation is an opportunity for those involved to chat and sing. Since everyone brings food, making sumalak also has the feel of a party. Wash the wheat thoroughly and soak it in warm water for three days, changing the water daily. Then spread the wheat kernels out on a perforated plywood board to a thickness of about three centimeters and place it in a dark, warm room. Sprinkle with water three times a day to keep the wheat kernels moist and begin to germinate. This usually happens by the end of the third day. The wheat germ should be light green and the roots white. Depending on the type of wheat used, germination can be faster or slower. Just watch for the first tiny stalks. Now you can begin making sumalak. Finely puree the wheat grains and stalks in a food processor or meat grinder, add to five liters of water, and mix thoroughly. The liquid should now have a milky color. Strain through a sieve and two fine cloths, then squeeze the mixture well. Repeat the process twice, using two liters of water each time. We now have three different liquids of decreasing milkiness. Mix the first five liters of liquid with the flour, vegetable oil, and whole walnuts in a large pot and heat, stirring constantly. In Uzbekistan, sumalak would be prepared outdoors in a “kazan,” a large wok-like pot with a semicircular bottom, over an open fire. However, it can also be prepared in a regular pot indoors. During heating, lumps will inevitably form, but these will dissolve with continued stirring. After four to five hours of slow simmering and regular stirring, the liquid will have thickened and taken on a light brown color. Now add the next two liters of water, heat, and stir, stir, stir. After another four hours of diligent stirring, the last of the liquid is added, and the by-now familiar process is continued for another four hours. In the final phase, the initial flour water has turned a dark caramel color, thickened to a viscous liquid, and acquired a sweet flavor. The closer you get to the end, the more important stirring becomes, as the thicker the sumalak, the more prone it is to burning. The stirring party has now lasted more than twelve hours, and the liquid has reduced to three to four liters. The heat is now reduced to the lowest setting, and the sumalak is allowed to simmer, covered, on the stove for another four hours. In Uzbekistan, prayers are said before uncovering the sumalak, and a silent wish on this occasion is said to be fulfilled. Small islands of oil have formed on the finished sumalak, but these are not a problem. It is now served in small bowls with fresh flatbread. Sumalak has a rich sweetness that is incomparable to any other dessert. If you don’t want to spend a lot of time preparing it yourself, you can buy ready-made sumalak in spring at any market in Uzbekistan or, even better, in a traditional household.

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Written by John Myers

Professional Chef with 29 years of industry experience at the highest levels. Restaurant owner. Beverage Director with experience creating world-class nationally recognized cocktail programs. Food writer with a distinctive Chef-driven voice and point of view.

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